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September 27 2005

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September  27 -  06:30 left Nuuk heading SSE.  If weather good ahead we would
continue to Azores but winds forecast up to hurricane force so we looked for
protection.  The western Arctic has some good anchorages with great holding
but not the Eastern Arctic or Greenland.   Here high steep cliffs and places
with shallow bays don't often have good holding.  We have a 110 pound Bruce
anchor which is big for our size of boat and held even on the river with
wheels and jet boats dragging, but here it lets go at night in a blizzard
when winds are up.  We went up Bredefjord 30 miles to 1 mile north of
Narsaq, a beautiful Bay (Narssap ilua) all to ourselves.  It was good until
the sun went down and the wind came up and heavy rain started.  We circled
all night again then went to the commercial dock in town and rafted to
another boat that was tied to the dock with good shelter.

Narssaq is no doubt the prettiest town I have ever seen and a must for any
traveler that wants the best without the rush.  Again little English on the
non tourist places, but I do want to come back.  Through the wonders of
modern communication I was unable to contact my friend Stefan Magnusson in
Isortoq until his friend at the Tourist Information Center in Narssaq was
able to provide me the phone number.  Sorry Stefan that we were unable to
stop now, it would have been very interesting in round-up and slaughter
time.

A lot of ice here from calving glaciers but little of it is large like in
Davis Strait.  Some places on our way up the fjord it was so thick we
thought we would be blocked or worse yet our anchorage would get plugged and
we would be there for the winter.  One 2 mile stretch we had to break 2" of
new ice before reaching better going.   Lots of risk but plenty of rewards.

We expect to leave for Azores about Oct. 3.  The lows keep coming through
but we expect a good crossing with a few bumps.